This is my initially time using green stuff or kneaditte 2 component epoxy. I am utilizing it to fill in gaps in an assembled metal dragon miniature, fill seam gaps in a Bones minotaur, and also develop a hand also for a pewter damsel miniature that had its hand also break off and also to produce a huge toe for a King Kong gorilla form mininature that came via one big toe lacking.

You are watching: How long for green stuff to dry

 

My initially question really is, after mixing the yellow and also blue to make some greenstuff, exactly how long does it stay fresh enough to use for sculpting?

 

My second question is, once you end up sculpting, just how long does it require to collection properly enough to prime and also paint?

 

I welcome any kind of information you have the right to provide.


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Flow 417


Posted March 16, 2013

Flow

InstigatorMembers 417227 posts
Posted March 16, 2013

It have to be soft sufficient to work-related via for at leastern an hour, maybe longer.

 

I would certainly tend to let it sit over night prior to priming and paint. It will certainly get tough sooner than that; but it"s likely better to let it totally cure prior to working on it.

 

Also, as a green stuff different if you uncover yourself doing little little fixes pretty regularly, or simply want to experiment, there"s likewise Magic Sculpt:

 

http://www.amazon.com/Magic-Sculpt-Lb-Epoxy-Clay/dp/B003ALAZS8

 

It"s absolutely more product for your buck. $35 dollars for 5 pounds, and five pounds will most likely last a *long* time. It likewise remains soft for a pair hrs and need to be primed/painted the next day. A little bit sticky once you initially mix it - wetting your fingers and/or letting it sit for about 15 minutes after mixing helps via that a bit.


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Corporea 20795


Posted March 16, 2013

Corporea

GodlikeBones Supporter 207954467 postsLocation:North Carolina, USA
Posted March 16, 2013

you have the right to prime it while it"s still soft, yet be cautious as it can still deform if you push at it. I normally wait till the following day to prime/paint unmuch less I"m impatient. It doesn"t seem to shrink while hardening, so painting sooner will not cause your paint to crack.


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Slendertroll 7554


Posted March 17, 2013

Slendertroll

Free AgentBones Supporter 75543650 postsLocation:Grinnell, IA, USA
Posted March 17, 2013

Also, freezing it will certainly extfinish its workable life and also boiling/heating will certainly make it cure much faster.


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Leader of the Rats 968


Posted March 17, 2013

Leader of the Rats

MasterMembers 968848 posts
Posted March 17, 2013

You deserve to also off balance the mix of blue and yellow. More yellow means much longer work time however a slightly softer cured state. More blue indicates less job-related time however a little bit harder final cure. Don"t go as well overboard on the yellow or it simply wont cure right and also will be also soft when cured.


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dks 5230


Posted March 18, 2013

dks

GodlikeArtists
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52301340 postsLocation:Oakland, CA
Posted March 18, 2013

You deserve to likewise off balance the mix of blue and yellow. More yellow implies longer job-related time yet a slightly softer cured state. More blue suggests less work time yet a little bit harder last cure. Don"t go also overboard on the yellow or it simply wont cure right and will certainly be also soft as soon as cured.


 

It"s true that you can mix the blue and yellow in proparts other than 1-to-1 (yet not even more than around 2-to-1 or 1-to-2), but I think the impact is the various other way about. The raw blue component is more rubbery and also cohesive, and more blue in the mix renders for a slower-curing, softer final product that doesn"t organize fine details too, yet is suitable for massing and for anatomy without sharp meaning. The yellow component holds sharper forms. I mix about 2 yellow to 1 blue when I"m sculpting fine details.

 

And as
slendertroll created, cold will sluggish the curing (I"ve put blended putty into the freezer for a few hrs, taken it out and let it thaw/soften, and also then resumed sculpting), and also moderate warm will certainly rate it.

The working time below in the moderate San Francisco-location climate is about 90-120 minutes, with complete hardness after about 24 hrs.

When I"ve sculpted at Reaper HQ in a room through overactive air-conditioning (60 levels or so), I"ve uncovered that the curing was a lot slower.

 

Don"t be frustrated if you can not get excellent outcomes in the initially 15 minutes after mixing, because the putty is usually just also soft. Stick the putty onto your miniature while the putty is fresh and also soft, yet let it sit for around 15 minutes prior to you start sculpting the surconfront into the forms that you desire.

 

Enjoy,

Derek


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Robert Feather 0


Posted March 28, 2013

Robert Feather

NewbieBones Supporter 01 post
Posted March 28, 2013

Has anyone tried using the Liquid Environment-friendly Stuff, that GW are now selling?

 

Is it malleable, does it collection hard, and will certainly it store sharp detail?

 

And is it somepoint I could make at house, from mixing Environment-friendly Stuff and also some plain household product?


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Sanael 15036


Posted March 28, 2013

Sanael

God among Kender and KoboldsBones Supporter 150364751 postsLocation:Pittsburgh
Posted March 28, 2013

I"ve supplied the liquid gs...it"s fine for gap-filling, although I don"t think it"s any type of even more user-friendly than regular gs. It absolutely is not for actual sculpting. For gap-filling, I execute discover it shrinks significantly more than regular gs as it cures.

 

I would certainly likewise just buy a pot of it if I had a huge job prefer an army to assemble and gapfill. Even even more than most gw paint products, the liquid gs dries out in the pot reasonably conveniently, so I wouldn"t buy a pot unmuch less I kbrand-new I would certainly usage most of it within the following month.


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zoroaster100 5028


Posted March 28, 2013

zoroaster100

GodlikeBones Supporter 50282092 postsLocation:Miami, Florida
Author
Posted March 28, 2013

Thanks for all the replies. I was pleased through the outcome of my first use of greenstuff. I supplied it for gap-filling an assembled Ebonwrath dragon mini and a Bones minotaur. I additionally sculped a toe for a big ape who came via its significant toe missing from the keep. And I sculped a hand also on a noble lady Megaminiatures Townfolk mini that lost her hand also while I cleaned the mini of flash and also mold lines with a hobby knife (better her hand than my finger though!).


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Hellbeard 296


Posted March 31, 2013

Hellbeard

EnlightenedMembers 296344 posts
Posted March 31, 2013

Thanks for all the replies. I was pleased with the result of my initially usage of greenstuff. I provided it for gap-filling an assembled Ebonwrath dragon mini and a Bones minotaur. I likewise sculped a toe for a big ape who came through its substantial toe lacking from the keep. And I sculped a hand on a noble lady Megaminiatures Townpeople mini that shed her hand also while I cleaned the mini of flash and also mold lines through a hobby knife (better her hand than my finger though!).


Cool! Let"s view some images currently. :)
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mangochutnee 574


Posted March 29, 2014

mangochutnee

InstigatorMembers 574143 posts
Posted March 29, 2014(edited)

I"ve provided the liquid gs...it"s fine for gap-filling, although I don"t think it"s any more user-friendly than continual gs. It definitely is not for actual sculpting. For gap-filling, I perform find it shrinks considerably more than regular gs as it cures.

 

I would certainly additionally only buy a pot of it if I had a huge job like an army to assemble and gapfill. Even even more than many gw paint products, the liquid gs dries out in the pot sensibly quickly, so I wouldn"t buy a pot unmuch less I kbrand-new I would certainly use a lot of of it within the next month.


 

I simply desire to reiteprice this point. The only point liquid green stuff is great for is for conveniently filling in seams in multi-component figures. It can be sanded after it dries to gain a smooth complete. But it does go negative really fast - I"ve had actually my pot for much less than a year and also it"s currently A Brick of Eco-friendly Stuff . I think I provided probably 5% of it.

 

Edit: I didn"t realize how old this thcheck out was! I observed March 201X and just assumed. In any type of case it answered all my inquiries around curing times perfectly. Hopefully my thread necromancy will prove helpful to others in search of the very same answers.

Edited March 29, 2014 by mangochutnee
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